Thin films create a bouquet of color inside a Russian emerald.
Figure 1. A Russian emerald carving, approximately 41 × 25 mm, of a woman holding blooming flowers, reportedly fashioned by Michael Peuster. Photo by Ronnakorn Manorotkul; courtesy of Tsarina Jewels.
Some gems are enchanting both outside and in. Recently, the Lotus Gemology laboratory received an interesting submission of a 78.01 ct carved Russian emerald. According to the client, the emerald was carved by gemstone engraver Michael Peuster and inspired by art nouveau artist Alphonse Mucha. The woman depicted holds blooming flowers, symbolizing the arrival of spring (figure 1). Microscopic examination revealed delicate, bouquet-like thin film inclusions on the back of the carving (figure 2). Iridescent thin films are frequently observed in emeralds from Russia, and this specimen showcased several striking examples. It was a delightful coincidence to find that the inclusion scene in this stone echoed the floral motif carved into its exterior.
Figure 2. Like an artist’s palette, clusters of stacked thin films create a bouquet of color inside this Russian emerald. Photomicrograph by E. Billie Hughes; field of view 5.4 mm.
About the Author
E. Billie Hughes visited her first gem mine (in Thailand) at age two and by age four had visited three major sapphire localities in Montana. A 2011 graduate of UCLA, she qualified as a Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (FGA) in 2013. An award winning photographer and photomicrographer, she has won prizes in the Nikon Small World and Gem-A competitions, among others. Her writing and images have been featured in books, magazines, and online by Forbes, Vogue, National Geographic, and more. In 2019 the Accredited Gemologists Association awarded her their Gemological Research Grant. Billie is a sought-after lecturer and has spoken around the world to groups including Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. In 2020 Van Cleef & Arpels’ L’École School of Jewellery Arts staged exhibitions of her photomicrographs in Paris and Hong Kong.
Notes
This article first appeared in Gems & Gemology, Winter 2025, Vol. 61, No.4, p. 400–401.